There’s been a lot of talk about the return of the 80s over the past two seasons, most of which has been debunked, notably by Suzy Menkes, who pointed out that the monumental shoulders and hairstyles Paris turned out for Winter 09/10 are actually repositioned, reanimated relics from the 40s. So the real early 80′s cool in New Yorker Tim Hamilton’s collection was rare and refreshing. The elegant recitation of Schubert’s piano trio 100 gave way suddenly to Bauhaus singing Bela Lugosi’s Dead as a stick-thin and black-lipsticked Asia Bugajska, styled to android perfection with slicked platinum hair that turned white under the hot lights, stamped onto the runway. All of the models wore gleaming round eyeglasses that lent them the calculating, predatory look of Tony Scott’s chic uptown vampires in The Hunger, the film that inspired the collection. Elements of gentlemen’s black tie lent structure to the drapery, which was never arbitrary or distracting, as has been the case elsewhere this season. The shoulders sloped, or curved, ever so slightly, though remained sharp and feminine, as were the breast-baring sheer panels between them. The only false note in this very unique collection was in the pants which were not, the press release insisted with a sniff, ‘baggy’. They were ‘blasé’. Maybe a bit trop…
www.timhamilton.com/
