Filles du Calvaire

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DOLLS

Another addition to NoMa (Northern Marais), this dense new multibrand store proposes a cutting-edge selection of labels including Citizens of Humanity, By Malene Birger, Sass & Bide, jewellery by Louise Gos and shoes from Les Tropéziennes or Miami designers Alejandra Ingelmo. The store has an ecological bent, too: the fit-out was designed using only ecological materials, and the store encourages its clients to participate in a reforestation project by donating 50c to Planète Urgence. More proof of their generosity, one of the 5 store windows is dedicated to local creative projects - painting, video, writing - under the banner ‘Windows of Life'. We like it.

Une nouvelle adresse multimarque arrive dans le Haut Marais. Dédiée aux ‘princesses urbaines', cette boutique intimiste propose prêt-à-porter et accessoires de griffes comme Citizens of Humanity, By Malene Birger, Sass & Bide, ou accessoires de Louise Gos, Les Tropéziennes ou Alejandra Ingelmo, par exemple. On aime.

56 rue de Saintonge, 3rd. M°Filles du Calvaire. 01.44.54.08.21.
 

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APRIL 77

The store rocks as much as the skinny jeans. Designed by Steven Thomas (legendary designer of 1970’s London Big BIBA concept store), April 77s first ever flagship is designed with art deco in mind and is entirely custom-made. The almost maze-like space makes you feel like you’re in a time warp, with old-school record players and original rocker magazines displayed alongside studded faux leather (the maison is vegetarian) jackets, acid wash jeans, a great selection of shirts and perfect cashmere. MM

La marque française du jean slim ouvre sa première boutique, créée par Steven Thomas, le designer légendaire du 1970s concept store BIBA à Londres. Courez-y.

49 rue de Saintonge, 3rd. M°Filles du Calvaire. www.april77.fr
 

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LA BRICIOLA

The team behind the Canal Saint Martin’s popular Italian restaurants, La Maddonina and their more recent pizzeria, Maria Luisa, have opened another annex in the upper Marais’ rue Charlot, offering a similar menu and quality to Maria Luisa but for a more upscale clientele. Surrounded by the art galleries and trendy boutiques of Paris’s NoMa (Northern Marais) district, this cozy eatery pulls in the crowds for easy Italian eats: copious platters of charcuterie, quality pizzas, a small selection of daily changing pasta and salad, served with homemade bread and washed down with a limited but good selection of vinos, by glass, pitcher or bottle. Go for a biano and finish with the excellent caramel panacotta. Starters from 7-9€, pizzas from 9-15€. AM

L'équipe derrière La Maddonina et Maria Luisa, les deux restaurants italiens du Canal St Martin, ouvre un nouvel espace rue Charlot, et donc à l’épicentre du rive gauche arty-chic. Proposant plus ou moins la même formule qu’on trouve chez Maria Luisa, ils servent des pizzas délicieuses, une petite sélection de vins italiens, par pichet ou bouteille, et quelques bons plats du jour (pâtes, salades).

Open Mon-Sat, lunch and dinner. 64 rue Charlot, 3rd. M°Filles du Calvaire. 01.42.77.34.10.
 

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8EME CIEL

Long gone are the days when sex toys were hidden inside dark and dodgy establishments; Lieu Commun proudly displays Matali Crasset’s new generation of sex toy in the window. Along with Andrea Knecht and Sara Szyber, via the company Exquise Design, Crasset has taken a by-women-for-women approach to sexual pleasure and come up with a ‘love toy’, products aimed at redefining codes in line with women’s lives today. The first design in the series, by Crasset, is called 8ème Ciel (8th heaven), as much for its figure-eight, explicitly non-phallus form, as for the enhanced sensuality it offers. Following the natural curves of your hand, the eight metal balls inserted in the silicon create a unique organic motion. You can chose from four pastel-shades and the packaging is sweet too. JL

Une collection design par les femmes pour les femmes. Trois femmes designers originaires de la France, du Brésil et de Suède, ont relevé le défi en respectant le brief précis: Créer un objet de plaisir destiné à l'amour solitaire ou partagé qui soit: non-explicite, non-mécanique, en silicone et qui s'intègre instinctivement au corps. Le premier produit de la collection Exquise Design est signé par la designer française Matali Crasset. Nommé 8ème Ciel, cette création inédite marque l'entrée en scène dans le monde du design d'une nouvelle catégorie d'objets : le Lovetoy. 8ème Ciel est un nouveau type de jouet sensuel qui s’affranchit des codes habituels du genre. Sa forme mystérieuse et futuriste évoque le chiffre 8, voire le symbole de l'infini: il ressemble plus à un objet hybride de massage qu’au sacro saint phallus. C’est un objet complice qui vient se loger au creux de la main.

Tue-Sat, 11am-1pm, 3-7pm. Lieu Commun, 5 rue des Filles de Calvaire, 3rd. M°Filles du Calvaire. 01.44.54.08.30. www.exquisedesign.com
 

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CINDY GLASS

The hyperactive Laya Rahman has turned to designing shoes, after a career in product design, photography and cinema. Her girly brand Cindy Glass is young and fun with designs that are sexy, comfortably high and just right in clubs, though you could also wear them to the super market and even to Beirut, (where the shoes are made). The inventive corrugated iron and neon façade of the new Rue Charlot space gives way to white walls and a décor inspired by each collection, currently ‘Back to School’. Blackboards advertise the prices, 190-320€, and all the shoes are lined up in good straight lines. But best of all, on the weekend, there’s a cosy corner dedicated to foot massages, 10€ for 10 minutes.

Après une carrière dans le design, la photo et le cinéma, la très active Laya Rahman passe à la création de chaussures. Sa marque Cindy Glass, féminine, jeune et fun, est aussi sexy, avec des talons de la bonne hauteur, et si les modèles sont parfaits pour sortir en boîte, on pourrait aussi les porter pour aller faire les courses, ou à Beyrouth, où ces chaussures sont faites. Rue Charlot, sans la nouvelle boutique à l’inventive façade en métal et néons, les murs sont blancs et le décor inspiré par chaque collection – en ce moment, c’est ‘Back to School'. Les prix (190-320€) apparaissent sur des ardoises, et les paires de chaussures sont sagement alignées. Le mieux, c’est le petit coin massage des pieds, le week-end (10€ pour 10 minutes).

Tue-Sun, 10.30am-8pm. 47 rue Charlot, 3rd. M°Filles du Calvaire. 01.42.77.60.66. www.cindyglass.net
 

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SURFACE TO AIR II

Groove collective Surface to Air have just opened a second boutique in the rue Charlot, joining the cool throng rapidly colonising the northern Marais. This retail space is only part of their airy new 600m2 headquarters, where the multifaceted, energetic crew’s various activities (art and video direction, RendezVous salon, Vice magazine etc) are now concentrated. Go and check out the summer collections of cutting-edge labels like Cathy Pill, Henrik Vibskov or Blaak, contemporary jewellery by Atelier 11, plus Surface to Air’s own label of men’s and womenswear. Each season they invite a designer to oversee the men’s range, currently in store is Nicolas Andreas Taralis collection, but for winter, they'll be recruiting the talents of another rising star of fashion, Thomas Engelhart; and you’ll also find new labels like Raf by Raf Simons, and Rick Owens second line on the racks. So, there’s always something new.

Le collectif Surface to Air vient d’ouvrir une deuxième boutique, rue Charlot, et rejoint ainsi la foule branchée qui est en train de coloniser le nord du Marais. L’espace vente ne représente qu’une partie de leurs nouveaux quartier généraux, très spacieux (600m2), et où se concentrent les diverses activités de l’équipe (direction artistique, réalisation vidéo, salon RendezVous, magazine Vice etc). Allez donc jeter un coup d’œil aux collections été de marques à la pointe de la tendance comme Cathy Pill, Henrik Vibskov ou Blaak, la joaillerie contemporaine d’Atelier 11, et les vêtements homme et femme de Surface to Air. Chaque saison, un créateur est invité à s’occuper de la ligne homme; on trouve actuellement en magasin la collection de Nicolas Andreas Taralis et pour l’hiver c’est une autre étoile montante de la mode, Thomas Engelhart, qui s’y colle. Aussi disponibles, de nouvelles marques comme Raf by Raf Simons, et la seconde ligne de Rick Owens. Il y a toujours du nouveau.

68 rue Charlot, 3rd. M°Filles du Calvaire. surface2air.com
 

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LINDER

Artist behind the famous image on the cover of the Buzzcocks album Orgasm Addict (1977), Linder Sterling is only now starting to get the recognition she deserves. A product of the Manchester punk scene, Linder has been steadily building her diverse artistic output, including performance, collage, photography and film. And 2006 is looking like her year. A quality monograph by JRP Editions has recently been published, she participated in this year’s Tate Triennial, and there’s a spate of exhibitions showing in Europe and New York, including this one, curated by Jean-Max Colard for the brand new gallery space, LH.

It seems as if something’s happening for you at the moment.
Yes, it’s a good time.

Tell us about the work you’ve chosen to exhibit in Paris.
There’s a series of pieces based on the colour of the Ladurée packaging, huge silkscreens which been hand gilded in gold leaf. The printing is a very mechanical process, but the actual gilding is working against that. The work is a commission from the British Council in Prague. Being a Communist country, Prague never had any pornography, but I happened to find a tiny little pocket calender from the 1970s in a flea market. There was a brief political softening in Prague then, and someone obviously thought, ‘I know, I’ll make a pornographic calendar’. Prague had a fantastic relationship with Paris anyway, with that amazing architectural echoing between the two cities. And the buildings in Prague are now being renovated to their original colours, and the colours are very much the Ladurée colours. There’s a resonance between Prague and Paris, a cultural exchange between the two cities.

How much do you feel is your life and work tied to Manchester?
Yes, in some ways it was very tied to Manchester, though I left a few years ago. And before I left I really wanted to document the city, I think when you know you’re going to leave somewhere you really want to make a record, so I did lots of photography there and filmmaking. I’ve often joked that one day there’ll be an Ian Curtis boulevard, but I think they’re actually going to propose an Ian Curtis avenue or something. I don’t know how I feel about it. I find it really hard to evaluate just how important that period is. It is quite mythologised now. And I can’t be bothered evaluating it, let’s move on.

You’re associated with the punk movement.
All that history is now quite monopolised by just a few voices, a few people who have elected themselves as spokesmen, literally, of that generation, and I think it’s really important that there’s room for other voices to be heard, each story is quite unique and quite fascinating.

How do you feel about that period now?
In some ways it feels almost archaic now, especially when you see original documentary footage of the punk days. And now in Britain, you have almost cartoon punks, young punks coming up now, they’re kind of like a cartoon collage, with their black hair and tartan trousers… I think to myself, I invented you, you’re my weird grandchildren. Like all movements within popular culture, you get this residue that goes on decades after the event, of people adopting certain dress and certain music. And because of the book, I had to really go back and think about my crazy cultural origins, and see if there were any trajectories going through, and I think there are. I think that period in culture was kind of like a crack through to a fairly new territory. I think it was a very short-lived period.

It’s a real youth movement, and associated with your youth too.
It’s quite odd, I grew up in Liverpool, just as the Beatles, the whole – it was called Mersey Beat - all that Liverpool sound, was developing. My life has been in parallel to the history of pop music. I was born two years before Elvis Presley’s Heartbreak Hotel, which was essentially the beginning of pop. It’s quite interesting how my generation, our lives are parallel to the development of pop. As we age, one listens to pop music and thinks, what’s the ultimate destination of this culture? Will it also die, because so much is to do with youth, culture’s obsessed with age, the older generation are dinosaurs, everyone’s obsessed about being young, it’s quite fascist in that sense.

Tell us about your band Ludus.
In Manchester, most of the bands were all male. Factory Records was very, wonderfully, male, and then you had this little label, New Hormones, which was all funded from the Buzzcocks royalties, that had more the misfits, the people who didn’t quite know where they belonged. But I spose in the late 70s, it didn’t seem too big a step to go from making photo-montage to thinking about making songs. Everybody I knew was making songs. It seemed like a small step to investigate the possibilities of how you’d work in sound. I suppose there was acceleration then in the culture, one could wonder what it would be like to find musicians and make songs, and within the week be doing it.

That’s punk.
I think so, I think that sense of urgency, and maybe with hindsight, one looks back and thinks that there was a sense that that speed couldn’t have gone forever. That slight sense of urgency, ‘Well, what are you waiting for, just do it.’ And that was very punk. And maybe that element of punk has stayed with me even now. That, just do it, get on with it. If you haven’t got a publisher, or if you haven’t got a gallery, it doesn’t matter, just make the work and then worry about how you get the work out. That aspect has stayed with me.

You’ve had a very diverse output, do you have a clear idea of your identity as an artist
I think only recently there’s been a kind of softening in British culture, where one can be accepted for having had many areas of practice, only in the last 5 years maybe, that’s really beginning to happen. But I think over my life, I tried to make myself palatable, So at certain periods, I’d think, ‘I’m really going to concentrate on photography, because that’s what’s really interesting right now, and that’s what really intrigues me’, and what happens I suppose is that the editing of the self goes on. Now it’s very fashionable to say yes I made a film, I do drawings, I’m a DJ, we’re quite used to that, but the reality of a life lived like that is that you’re often penalised, because you don’t just do one thing, you’re inconsistent. Again, this book has been a very interesting adventure, a chance to put the story straight. I tried to put every element in, but not let anything dominate, and at the same time to have odd little bits and pieces… the Factory Egg Timer’s in there, You’re kind of telling people a story, and at the same time, leaving some little images unexplained as well.

Female identity has been a constant in your work.
When I was 16 I lived in a tiny mining village near in the north of England, and I remember I found Germaine Greer’s book The Female Eunuch and it absolutely just changed my consciousness, and it changed the way I lived my life, though I didn’t understand half her vocabulary… When she came to England in the mid 60s, she was very funny, she was very witty, she was very sexual, very beautiful, I think she was amazingly beautiful, I’d never seen a woman like that before in my life. I remember seeing her on TV and wondering, who is this goddess? I think for me as a young teenager growing up in this mining village, it was a revelation. Some people discovered God, but I discovered Germaine Greer. She was very important to me. And the importance of the book… because if you live in a tiny village, a book is like a lifeline. I suppose it’s about finding the right book at the right age, it gives you that sense of vision, you have some notion that there’s another life out there.

You’ve worked a lot with Morrissey, there’s rumours that you’ve been lovers…
There’s lots of gossip. Yes, we met 30 years ago this October, it’s a long time, most friendships don’t endure that long. Our lives very markedly different, maybe it’s the difference that’s made the relationship; that very lack of parity makes for a very diverse friendship.

I imagine there’s been some amazing times.
I think that period when I was photographing Morrissey, on those early tours in the early 90s, when he’d left the Smiths and was re-emerging. When you’re using a camera, you’re quite invisible anyway, and can have that sense of being able to very acutely witness something, and at the same time be quite removed from it… I think seeing that level of world hysteria, witnessing those moments, like when he filled Madison Square Gardens.

Who are some artists or musicians that you admire?
There’s so many. I always try and find out about really obscure female artists, surprise, surprise, because most information is about male artists. I like French female surrealists like Leonora Fini, you can’t still get a book in English about her work. It was a very fertile period, the men were so self-assured and flamboyant. I tend to return to that period of female Surrealists, there’s something there, even though I’m very aware of contemporary art practice. But I get inspiration from everywhere, from film, from popular culture. I’m very interested in what gets thrown away, with what’s ignored, with what’s not elevated,

Do you identify with the misfit?
Yeah, with not fitting in. Because that happens to be my experience. There are always people who just always absolutely know what they want to do, who are absolutely focused. I was never that clear. It’s like they have a menu and can choose and I felt like I was never given the menu, I could never quite find what it was. People would say, ‘well I want to be that’, but I wanted to be that, and that, as well. Maybe it’s like life as montage… My life as a montage.

9 Sep-5 Oct. 01.42.74.13.55. Galérie LH, 6 rue Saint Claude, Paris. 3rd. M°Filles du Calvaire.
 

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POP IN

Sweaty, hardly anywhere to sit, one loo with the door breaking off... no one comes here for the decor. With a raucous rock atmosphere, this is the shabby-chic venue for impromptu gigs and a sly drink or two, and Herman Dune, Daniel Johnston, Jeffrey Lewis and others play here when they're in town. Popular with the quartier's hip, international crowd, you can order a pint here without getting a funny look. The number of shaggy haired types and little girls in leggings and second-hand shoes can get tiresome though, and during fashion week you'll find more beautiful faces per square metre than is right or good, as the male models' favourite hotel is just across the road. Otherwise, the Pop In rocks every night with an unpretentious, loyal following.

01.48.05.56.11. 105 rue Amelot, Paris. 11th. M°Filles du Calvaire.
 

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HOTEL DU PETIT MOULIN

For the fashion fearless, this 4-star boutique hotel is luxurious with a capital Lacroix. The famous fashion designer has decorated the hotel with his signature extravagence. Black-and-white spotted carpet throughout contrasts with slick black lacquered doors and bold, colourful furniture. Each of the 17 rooms tells a story and offers abundant comfort and romantic mirrored bathrooms. In a quaint and atmospheric corner of the Marais, the hotel is the union of a heritage-listed boulangerie (where Victor Hugo apparently bought his daily baguette), an old bistro and hotel. Original stairwells, a 1920s brasserie converted into a private bar, period tapestries and Flemish frescoes combine with the luxury of Lacroix’s signature printed handiworks, furniture and lamps to create a unique design fusion. His whimsical dream guarantees an unforgettable stay.

01.42.74.10.10. Doubles from 180€. 29-31 rue de Poitou, Paris. 3rd. M°Filles du Calvaire. www.hoteldupetitmoulin.com
 

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VANESSA BRUNO

Vanessa Bruno is to French dressing as French dressing is to American salad: a true standard. Which is why her Marais outpost, and her third boutique in Paris, is bound to be popular. Living nearby, Bruno knows a thing or two about this fashion-oriented neighbourhood. The boutique's décor is minimal and natural; pristine white walls give way to exposed wood beams, while some shiny fake rocks contribute to the ambiance. The first floor houses racks of Bruno’s stylish clothes in a rainbow of colours alongside her signature sequined bags and other accessories, and the fun only continues upstairs.

01.42.77.19.41. 100 rue Vieille du Temple, Paris. 3rd. M°Filles du Calvaire. www.vanessabruno.com
 

Vernissage: Carte Blanche à Jeremy Deller, Palais de Tokyo


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