Opened last year by the Kinugawa family, Hanawa is an enormous emporium of Japanese cuisine, just off the elegant avenue Montaigne. The restaurant is divided into three different levels, each serving its own speciality: teppanyaké, sushi and traditional cuisine. We visited the traditional restaurant, tasting deliciously authentic (but expensive) dishes such as beef with ginger and algae, spankingly fresh tuna sashimi, and a wonderful sushi platter. As good as the food was, we couldn't help wondering if the new wave of authentic and good-value Japanese restaurants (Guilo Guilo, Youlin) might eventually dethrone outsized establishments like this, not that the ladies who lunch and suits would care. AM

The Champs-Elysées just got chic again. With the opening of Le 66 this week, owner Gilles BellaLoum has made a stand for French independence, on a street overrun by multi-national megastores. The multibrand clothing/concept store, situated between Sephora and Guerlain, is a massive space showcasing an imaginative list of prêt-à-porter for men and women. International labels like Misericordia, Levi's, or Fred Perry sit next to up-and-coming French créateurs like Mont St. Michel, Moritz Rogosky, Yaz, or Andrea Crews. It all makes for a hip shopping experience, especially with the collection of rare DVDs and avant-garde jewellery to complement the designer threads. In fact, Le 66 is sure to divert some fashionistas away from neighboring Avenue Montaigne, especially those in search of more offbeat labels. NF

Formerly known as the Yakitori Sushi Cho, Meiji has little to do with its former self, and even less to do with the plethora of other pseudo-Nippons in the Golden Triangle. Hidden at the end of a small passageway on the maddening rue Marbeuf, this discreet address serves stunningly fresh and well-presented seafood prepared by an expert in the field of traditional Japanese gastronomy, former Nobu chef Hitoshi Saito. The 65€ Omasaki menu gives full reign to the chef’s expertise; you will savour dishes such as white radish with salmon eggs, tuna tartar with nori leaves, and line-caught bass served tobanyaki-style (oven cooked). For the less adventurous, sushis and skewered meats and fish are also on offer. And don’t overlook the perfectly chilled on-tap Kirin beer. AM

Marni designer Consuelo Castiglioni has a loyal following for her fresh boho designs, sportswear separates and love of graphic prints. Much imitated but never bettered, her designs are fashion staples: edge to edge coats, high-waisted dresses with appliqué details, soft cropped jackets with leather belts and buckles, loose boyfriend trousers. The sleek Avenue Montaigne boutique was designed by avant-garde London architects, Future Systems. Discover a décor that nods to Surrealism, resplendent with polished stainless-steel steps and ceiling, poles shaped like branches, huge pool-like mirrors and globular islands displaying bags and shoes. It’s always busy here, but there are plenty of snotty sales assistants at your service. CT

With Christophe Decarnin now at the creative helm, the refined evening-wear label has been brought bang up to date. Sofia Coppola even wore one of their little black numbers to Cannes last year. Decarnin has brought a louche modernity to Balmain, designing dresses to turn heads for all the right reasons. The Balmain signature black is still much apparent, as are those theatrical full-length gowns, but the overall look is looser and heaps more fun. Dramatic draping, huge balloon sleeves, risqué abbreviated minis: this is cocktail attire for the modern ingénue. Tucked away on rue François-1er, the two-floor boutique is sunny and bright in stark contrast to the clothes, and with walls almost entirely covered with mirrors, there are plenty of opportunities to admire one's reflection in that thigh-skimming number. CT

Jil Sander is back to its best. The Prada-owned label has been teetering on commercial disaster for years after disputes between the eponymous designer and corporate bigwigs. Jil has now left for good, but leaves behind a reputation for quality fabrics, a pure and clean aesthetic, signature tailoring and an almost military adherence to a limited colour scheme. Her understated elegance made Jil Sander one of the most respected names in fashion. This year, uber-cool Belgian menswear designer Raf Simons took over the creative directorship, and at Milan in September he sent out a collection honouring his predecessor. Discover the collection at the vast boutique on the Avenue Montaigne. The former atelier and showroom of Madame Vionnet, the space is beautifully calm and elegant. A concrete spiral staircase winds downstairs to an airy space where you can browse. A cult address.

A favourite address for cash-rich, time-poor label lovers for whom zen is found inside the changing room of an Avenue Montaigne boutique. Hunky security guards usher you quietly into the white lacquered, bleached wood emporium, which is situated right next to the 8th’s main fashion players. Liliane Jossua and Alain Celhay have experience internationally as buyers, and the tourist-trap location serves them well. Their multi-brand boutique stocks Temperley, Proenza Schouler, Matthew Williamson, Luella and Zac Posen alongside Me&Ro jewellery and major Jacob&co watches. The pieces are well chosen with a leaning toward the elegant and noir.

The pouty lank-haired boys working at Dior Homme are reason enough to stop by the Avenue Montaigne boutique. Cult menswear designer Hedi Slimane's aesthetic has spawned a new breed of slinky-hipped androgynes. Find slim-cut tuxedos, fine knits and razor sharp shirts for a chop-stick silhouette. Perfect for would-be rockstars. Galliano’s theatrical womenswear ain't bad either. Serious red-carpet bling can be found here, along with prêt-à-porter, and homeware. Dior dishes! The full makeup, perfume and beauty ranges are out in force in this cavernous preening paradise. The flash-trash 'J'adore Dior' moment seems but a distant nightmare. Rub shoulders with the stinking rich and wide-eyed girls from the suburbs.

'Monkfish in lobster sauce, 31€.'
Hôtel Trémoille has never really succeeded in being the hot address Terence Conran dreamed of. The sleek bar has given up on DJ nights, but the restaurant is trying to resurrect itself with a new chef, 28-year-old Frédéric Duca. The Haussmannian surroundings are elegant but at the same time rather soulless, and the same could be said of the diners. The meal got off to an excellent start with an amuse-bouche of hot artichoke hearts, and starters of quail and fig salad and foie gras for which the waiter suggested an interesting Banyuls wine. Neither of our fish mains or desserts were extraordinary however. The service does the place credit, and it’s a good business lunch choice, but we could understand why Edouard Baer and his date in Mensonges et Trahisons left early to have rampant sex in the scene filmed here – there is just no compelling reason to stay.