Open for more than fifty years, this Danish institution, located in the tourist mecca of the Champs-Elysées, has been a welcome gastronomic oasis on a street not particularly associated with good eating. Discreetly located upstairs from their more casual Flora Danica (with it’s great summer terrace), this fish restaurant is decorated in a sober style and furnished with many examples of excellent Scandinavian design. The kitchen is run by chef Georges Landriot (formerly of Prunier and Goumard) and has a Michelin star rating; it proposes a superb menu of pristine specialties including marinated herring, salmon grilled ‘unilateral’ style, and juicy reindeer steaks. AM

Owned by Philippe Vic, nephew of uber restaurateur Jean-Louis Costes, this Jacques Garcia designed bar on the prestigious avenue George V is open from morning to night, dishing up breakfast, lunch, dinner to local hotel workers, gangsters, club kids and the moneyed jetset. They serve a suitably international range of cocktails and their selection of vodka is one of the best in the city. The breakfast is great too, and their cheeseburgers (16€) and croque-monsieur are the Champs-Elysées’ best hangover cure. AM

Originally opened in 1914, Guerlain’s flagship store is a chandelier-ornamented oasis amongst the car showrooms, Zara boutiques and franchised cafes on the once-glamorous Champs-Elysées. The boutique was revamped in late 2005 by Andrée Putman and French monument specialist Maxime d'Angeac – who created its iconic, undulating ‘ruban d’or’. Once inside, lovers of luxe can climb the shimmering staircase towards an ‘olfactory voyage’ where famous Guerlain fragrances like Shalimar, L’Heure Bleue, and new-comer Insolence, are mixed in with boutique exclusives from the Collection Privée. Jars of coffee beans are available to clear the nasal palate, but when sensory overload disables your ability to discern sandalwood from fraises des bois, boutiquers can head to the facial care and makeup alcove to sample the maison's newest cream, Orchidée Impériale. CG

Navratn shahi korma: chunks of roasted lamb with crème fraîche, cashews and raisins, 16€

Who would’ve thought that the best new Indian restaurant in Paris would be found in the touristy, over-priced ‘Triangle d’Or’ off the Champs-Elysées, in what was formerly the one-star Michelin rated Bath’s? The decoration, although pleasant enough, is fairly typical, in an Indian palace sort of way, giving no indication of what gastronomic feast awaits you. The story is this: the owner’s father, Chaman Lal Balla, was the person responsible for bringing sophisticated Moghal cooking to Paris in the 1970s, long before the ‘ethnic’ food vogue, and all of the most well-known Indian restaurants in Paris (Annapurna, Indra, etc) are owned by his former employees. Sanjeev, the discreet Chaman’s son, has decided to bring some recognition to the family at last by creating what is perhaps Paris’ best Indian restaurant. The kitchen prepares perfectly cooked and spiced dishes, often from original 15th-century recipes, and served in healthy portions. Ratn means jewel or treasure in classical Hindi; a name well chosen.

Qui aurait pu s’imaginer que le nouveau meilleur restaurant Indien de Paris, se trouverait dans le touristique et hors de prix Triangle d’Or, autour des Champs Elysées? Cet établissement était autrefois le Bath’s, classé une étoile au Michelin. La décoration est assez plaisante quoique très classique dans une mouvance de Palais Indien, ne donnant aucune indication sur le festin gastronomique qui vous attend. La petite histoire: le père du propriétaire Chaman Lal Balla est l’homme qui a amené en France dans les années 70 la très sophistiquée cuisine Moghal, bien avant la vague ethnique, et les restaurants indiens les plus connus de Paris (Annapurna, Indra, etc), appartiennent à d’anciens cuisiniers à lui. Sanjeev, le fils discret de Chaman, a décidé de faire enfin les talents familiaux en créant certainement le meilleur restaurant indien de Paris. La cuisine prépare à merveille plats chauds et épicés, d’après des recettes du 15ème siècle et les sert dans des portions équilibrées. Ratn signifie bijou ou trésor en hindi classique, un nom bien trouvé…

Designer/ entrepreneur Alex de Bétak and Soundgarden frontman Chris Cornell have set up a chic new, New York style bar -slash -restaurant. The sombre interior, all shiny laquer and metal surfaces, serves up a neo American cuisine. Think minimal burgers for an anorexic fashion set.

Revamped, re-launched and ready to rake in the cash... Louis Vuitton's flagship store on the Champs re-opened in October 2005 to major fanfare. Contemporary artists Olafur Eliasson and Vanessa Beecroft were roped in to redesigning the head-spinning interior. Enter Louis Vuitton world at your peril. More than a few Tokyo-ites have fainted upon crossing the heavily guarded mantel. Monogram yourself to within an inch of your life. The snooty staff will give you the once-over before deigning you worthy of attention. And have your passport ready – Asian LV fans have a two item purchase, max... (It’s common to be offered cash on the street outside to pick up extra items). Not a place to pop into in one’s lunch hour, the store is excruciatingly time-consuming if you actually want to buy something, but fun if you want to gawp at the car-crash LV phenomenon.

This venerable, family-owned parfumerie has been crafting scents since 1760. A staunch traditionalist, Master Perfumer Olivier Creed selects the natural ingredients which are then hand mixed, macerated then filtered using a time-honoured infusion technique that has been abandoned by industrial manufacturers. Their handsomely packaged eaux de toilettes come in refined interpretations of classic unisex aromas: Juniper Berry, Royal English Leather, Mandarin Grapefruit Zest, Imperial Sandalwood and the like. One of the most popular perfumes is Green Irish Tweed, a manly mixture of violet, verbena, and iris. Their range of toiletries, candles and scented oils make excellent cadeaux.