A no fuss, no frills Franco-Japanese eatery with a cult following. The décor would probably be best described as minimalist, though not in the pretentious sense, but rather in a carefree, undone kind of way. The animated open-kitchen is perfectly suited to the friendly Canal St Martin quartier, and weather permitting, the wall of windows giving onto the street are ideal spots for people watching. Fish lovers will be delighted with the array of raw or easy-over marine life on offer, plates of sashimi (around 18€) and grilled tuna (19€) are a favourite here. Committed carnivores can try the beef in a citronelle sauce, and allow the complimentary amuse-bouche of deep-fried marinated fish to go to their dining partners. The lunchtime menu is good value: 15€ , entrée + plat, plat + dessert, or the full works for 18€. FU

The fact that they serve the best pint of Guinness in town would be reason alone to come to this pocket-sized Irish pub, right in view of the Canal Saint Martin. The warm, friendly atmosphere and genial welcome by Kevin, the owner, makes one want to come back again and again, as do the delicious toasties, jacket potatoes, and communicating shop, Scrumptious, full of British and Irish goodies. There's also darts, a book exchange and football nights. What more could you ask for? AM

Since gastro heavyweights Inaki Aizpitarte (Le Transversal and ex-La Famille) and Fred Peneau (Café Burq) took over this already chic and successful bistro on rue Parmentier, tout Paris can't get enough - lunches are crowded and you'll need to book for dinner. Still, if you have to wait, you can do it in style, perched up at the bar with a good glass of white and a selection of tapas to nibble. The lunch formule (14€) is delicious, but simpler than dinner, when chef Inaki really comes into his own. His menu is contemporary with the left-of-centre flair which made La Famille famous. Changing daily you might find mackerel cerviche with litchis and green Tabasco, seared tuna with asparagus and chorizo, and for dessert sublime mint-infused chocolate. JB

Scallops from Erquy, green curry sauce, spiced rice pilaf, part of 29€, 3-course dinner menu.

The jury’s still out on this 40-seater néo-bistro behind the Canal St-Martin. The space is comfortable in a shabby-chic/ loft sort of way, and Audrey, the Belfast-born owner and her husband Olivier, the chef (who has done stints at Darroze and Choukroun’s establishments), are lovely, but they still need some time to find their feet. Service was a little wonky and the 29€, three-course menu was without great surprise, though there were spots of talent and interest, the scallops with a rose-petal/ balsamic reduction, green curry sauce and pilaf rice were delicious, though the brownie with gingerbread ice-cream dessert was dull (why eat brownies in Paris?). Wines are chosen by the former chef sommelier of the Hôtel Astor, and the organic Cuvée Bio Côtes de Rhone 2005 was refreshing throughout the meal. One to watch. AM

Pizza quattro staggioni, 14€.

The clever Madonnina (10 rue Marie et Louise, 10th) team have created an annex to their enduringly popular Italian restaurant by the Canal St-Martin. This Neapolitan-style pizzeria may just be serving the best pizzas in Paris: real mozzarella, a crispy, thin crust, and the right balance of quality ingredients. The menu is 100 percent pizza, including ‘white pizzas’ (without tomato sauce), and calzone, but there’s also two dishes of the day, maybe a generous spaghetti arrabiata and a tuna carpaccio. Bottles of house-made sage, rosemary and chilli flavoured oil circulate from table to cheery table. The wine list is well-balanced and affordable, with plenty of good Italian bottles and quaffable, good-value ‘pichets’. Desserts are what you’d expect. Three sexy and good-humoured wait-staff circulate the large, bright room, making service quick and painless.

La maline équipe de Madonnina (10 rue Marie et Louise, 10th) vient de créer une annexe à leur très populaire restaurant italien derrière le canal St Martin. Cette pizzéria napolitaine sert certainement les meilleures pizzas de Paris: de la vraie mozarella, une pâte croustillante et fine, et la dose parfaite d'ingrédients. Le menu est fait à 100% de pizzas, avec notamment la pizza blanche (sans sauce tomate), et la calzone, mais il y a aussi deux plats du jour, peut-être une généreuse plâtrée de spaghetti arrabita et un carpaccio de thon. Des bouteilles faîtes maison d'huile parfumé à la sauge, au piment et au romarin circulent de tables en heureuses tables. La carte des vins est bien équilibrée et abordable et comprend de nombreuses bonnes bouteilles italiennes, et des pichets parfaits rapport qualité prix. Les desserts ressemblent exactement à ce à quoi vous vous attendez. Trois serveurs sexys et plutôt drôles se baladent dans la grande salle claire, histoire de vous servir rapidement et sans contraintes.