11°
Lamarck - Caulaincourt
HOTEL PARTICULIER MONTMARTRE
In the heart of Montmartre, hidden away behind an imposing gate and a cluster of trees, this grand 3-story mansion, formerly belonging to the Hermès family, has been transformed into a unique private hotel. With only 5 exceptional chambres, the premium is on comfort. These are definitely not your cookie-cutter designer spaces, as each room has been designed by a different Parisian personality, including ‘La chambre végétale’ from artist Martine Aballéa, and ‘La Chambre Vitrine’ from Duchamp prizewinner Philippe Mayaux. The living room has original furniture by Eames, van der Rohe, and Aalto, and the garden, such a luxury in Paris, was landscaped by Louis Bénech (who designed the recently renovated Jardin des Tuileries). Other plusses include around-the-clock room service. Book now. KDG
Au cœur de Montmartre, blotti derrière une grille imposante et un bouquet d’arbres, ce somptueux hôtel particulier de trois étages qui appartenait jadis à la famille Hermès, a été transformé en un hôtel privé unique. S’il ne compte que 5 chambres, exceptionnelles, l’accent est mis sur le confort. On ne verra pas là de conventionnels intérieurs de designer, puisque chaque chambre a été décorée par une personnalité parisienne différente, ainsi la ‘chambre végétale’ de l’artiste Martine Aballéa, et la ‘Chambre Vitrine’ de l’artiste Philippe Mayaux, vainqueur du prix Duchamp. Dans le salon, on trouve du mobilier original de Eames, van der Rohe, et Aalto, tandis que le jardin, un incroyable luxe à Paris, est signé du paysagiste Louis Bénech, à qui l’on doit la récente rénovation du Jardin des Tuileries. Autre bonus, parmi bien d’autres, le room service 24 heures sur 24. Réservez dès maintenant. KDG
ERMITAGE HOTEL
In a pretty, less-touristy part of Montmartre is this gorgeous Parisian home-away-from-home. The short hike from the metro is well worth it as the friendly villagefolk Bonjour you up the hill. Each of the 12 charming rooms, decorated with its own English floral fabric, is clearly loved and tended to by the warm, friendly owners, the Canipel family. Every room has its own small bathroom and a view either over Paris rooftops or the quiet local street. Breakfast is served in the rooms, but there are also garden tables on a lovely back terrace if you prefer. It’s a bit like going to stay with Auntie Vera, and as you might expect, Auntie Vera has no credit card facilities, so be prepared to pay in cash.
LE SQUARE
'Black pig from Bigorre, pumpkin mash and Swish chard (as part of two-course prix fixe), 24€.'
Camouflaged behind its 70s, smoked-glass front is this surprising restaurant that made its mark in summer with its delightful back-yard dining, but the garden isn’t the only appealing thing about this newcomer to the 18th. The non-smoking conservatory area with large abstract paintings is airy and pleasant and the food is creative and delicious, with lots of AOC references. We enjoyed pheasant terrine with mango chutney, and marinated ceps on salad. Black pig from Bigorre was served with pumpkin and Swiss chard, and magret de canard with Jerusalem artichokes, sparking an enthusiastic conversation with the waitress about old veg varieties. Though it was far from full at lunchtime, in the evenings the local bobos are out in full force.
