Fifty years after this French artist's death, the Pinoacotheque's exhaustive exhibition pointedly departs from the usual approach to th Fauvist/ Expressionist's paintings. Instead of merely expounding upon Rouault's strict moral judgments, the curators situate his work in a social context, exploring the perspectives of Rouault's colleagues and teachers: Gustav Moreau, Henri Matisse, and writer Leon Bloy, to name a few. It was Bloy who wrote that Rouault was ‘dizzy with ugliness', admonishing the painter for choosing unworthy subjects and his rough style. But it is precisely these elements which imbue Rouault's works with haunting beauty. His melancholy subjects (clowns, prostitutes, unsuspecting bathers) are painted with the gracefulness of Matisse and the strong blacks of Japanese ukiyo-e. It is the latter element that attracted the interest of Japanese collector Sazo Idemitsu, who has loaned the more than 70 works included in this exhibition. MO

One of Time magazine’s 100 most influential people in the world in 2007, Israeli designer Alber Elbaz keeps busy creating feminine, simple and wearable haute-couture for the house that Jeanne Lanvin built. He managed to singlehandedly steer the staid brand into the 21st century with designs that perpetuate elegant refinement – characterised by the skillful use of embroidery, beadwork, and meticulous details - but which have a distinctly contemporary aspect (Sofia Coppola and Chloé Sevigny are fans). This season, expect a play between matte and shiny, opaque and transparent in a game where velour, lame, quilted fabrics, and fluid materials come beautifully together. You’ll also find menswear, childrenswear, and accessories in this HQ. KDG

Our favourite French bag-maker open their 4th boutique in Paris, in the ritzy rue Cambon bang opposite the Chanel empire. Hay bales in the window evoke their summer season’s punk-pastoral collection. Jamin Puech’s whimsical, ethnicky designs incorporate possibly every artisanal technique and material known to man – embroidery, weaving, knitting, appliqué, beading, bells and jewels… Luckily, the boutique’s simple fit-out allows the colourful and at times deliciously over-the-top bags to shine.

Bam! Chanel release 10 new perfumes at once, more than doubling their range of available fragrances in one go. The new Exclusifs range of eau de toilettes is presented in 10 identical, 200ml bottles whose sexy and simple chunk have a modern, unisex appeal. Together the scents present an olfactive biography of the life of Coco Chanel. Four of the scents were created in the 20s by Coco and her ‘nose’ Ernest Beaux including N° 22 – a variation of the mythic N° 5, and created just a year later – and Cuir de Russie (‘scent of boots tanned by birch bark and the essence of blond tobacco’). And then there’s 6 new fragrances composed by Chanel’s current master perfumer Jacques Polge and inspired by the places, the houses and the objects she loved: Eau de Cologne, 31 rue Cambon, N° 18, Coromandel, Bel Respiro and 28 La Pausa. All are seriously desirable and available exclusively in Chanel boutiques.

In March, Armand and Martine Hadida unveiled the latest string to the L’Eclaireur bow with their 5th boutique in prime ‘golden triangle’ territory, a stone’s throw from the Crillon and the Hermès HQ. L’Eclaireur does multi-brand boutiques well. Mixing emerging designers with great pieces from established names, the intelligent buying keeps things fresh. Dries Van Noten, Thomas Wylde and the freshly relaunched Biba can be found amongst surprises from Oscar de la Renta or Ann Demeulemeester. Polished floorboards, high ceilings and an interior built around a pastel palette conjure a hip, international vibe. Love the leather Krug champagne trunk and selection of Fornasetti designs. The bar has just opened, decorated with the work of Fornasetti, and has already hosted Tommy Hilfiger’s shindig. Chef François Xavier Bogard of Jardins de Chaumont is at the helm of the restaurant, and we await his first menu with anticipation. Choose lush cocktails prepared by the resident mixologist. Destined to become a fixture on night-owl fashionistas radar. CT

The quintessential British designer has a new Paris boutique where art, literature and design nestle alongside dapper Paul Smith shirts, cute polka tea dresses and vintage pieces. The relaxed staff encourage browsing. You have time to peruse the glass cabinets crammed full of quirky bits and pieces: celebratory coronation mugs, limited-edition architecture books, cool maps, jewellery and paraphernalia for gentlemen. Gift ideas galore. The sleek curved staircase is papered with photographs, framed souvenirs, sketches and postcards and leads upstairs to womenswear where black-and-white Patti Smith images meet children’s naïve paintings. On a roll after opening in New York and Moscow, Paul Smith successfully marries the designer’s laid-back Notting Hill creativity with a thoroughly British sense of humour in this, his latest Paris boutique.

L’incontournable styliste britannique a une nouvelle boutique parisienne dans laquelle l’art, la littérature et le design se mélangent aux chemises soignées, aux très mignonnes robes polka et à des pièces vintage. L’équipe relaxée encourage la flânerie. Vous avez tout le temps pour passer en revue les vitrines dans lesquelles s’empilent des pièces excentriques : des mugs à l’effigie de la couronne, des livres d’architecture en édition limitée, des plans cools, des bijoux et des accessoires pour gentlemens. Des idées de cadeaux à profusion. L’escalier arrondi et brillant est recouvert de photographies, de souvenirs encadrés, de croquis et de cartes postales et mène à l’étage au rayon femme, où des images noir et blanc de Patti Smith se mêlent à des peintures naïves d’enfants. Dans une période faste, après avoir ouvert deux espaces à New-York et à Moscou, Paul Smith marrie à merveille la créativité décontract’ du styliste et l’humour british dans cette nouvelle boutique.

Carine Roitfeld, Mario Testino and Tom Ford’s X-rated advertising collaborations in the 90s (who can forget THAT risqué G-wax?) revived the ailing house and projected the trio into superstardom. Gucci exemplifies overt brand-recognition in a quintessentially Italian style. The label’s body conscious must-have items are based on well-crafted, seductive designs. Their bar and bit loafers, red and green webbing belts and tote and shoulder bags caught the essence of an emerging jet-set. The Gucci wearer is optimistic and colourful (we loved the hippie de luxe moment). Frida Giannini now rules the menswear roost. If you’re shopping for a cruise wardrobe, this is your one-stop shop.