When it opened some ten years ago, Sir Terance Conran’s first establishment in Paris drew a crowd, eager to see what the design king had brought to their doorstep. Stories of his legendary London eateries had made their way across the Channel: historic buildings retrofitted with cutting-edge dining rooms, and in the kitchens, a quality simulacra of French brasserie cuisine alongside English favourites. And here, in a former cabaret in the middle of the Latin Quarter, was the first French implantation. Happily (and perhaps surprisingly) the Alcazar stands the test of time. The undated design remains enjoyable, and the cuisine very respectable: the starter of millefeuille of raw tuna layered with avocados and mango with Thai spices – which could have been a hit and miss in any other establishment – was saved by the pristine quality of the ingredients; the entrecôte with béarnaise sauce and crispy fries was a tasty main, and the sticky chocolate cake for dessert was perfectly executed. The food, decor and charming service from manager Hubert made everything a pleasant surprise, for this address which merits a return visit.