'Sesame-roast John Dory with stir-fried veg, 25€.'
Bon is bon again thanks to new owner, Philippe Amzalak of Flora Danica/Copenhague fame and chef Bruno Brangea. Whatever went wrong in the past must have been pretty serious to keep people away from this fabulous Philippe Starck designed space, the precursor to his Cristal Room. You enter the Belle Epoque pavilion and are confronted by a silver quilted wall, mirrors, bottles and a sushi-conveyor belt bar where the talented Ruth-Elise mixes sublime cocktails under a revolving lit candelabra. The main, skylit dining room was full on a Thursday night, with a private birthday party in a lower room. The menu is big on fish, which can be grilled or steamed according to choice. A sashimi starter was ill-advisedly paired with a strong sesame marinade, but the tuna and green tomato tartare was more successful. Roast John Dory rose from its bed of stir-fried vegetables like a white wave, and the saffron risotto topped by six king prawns was nutty in texture and satisfying in taste. The strawberry and rhubarb crumble was lukewarm underneath but the chocolate tart with citrus sorbet unctuously good. A few small errors in the kitchen then, but the place rocks with a relaxed, moneyed crowd.