'Fillet of bar with purple artichokes and Bellota chorizo, 35€.'
Cyril Lignac may not have the chirpy charm of Jamie Oliver, but we feel the restaurant he opened with so much TV brouhaha has been unjustly written off. Yes, it’s in the depths of the 15th, but the black mosaic décor is très chic, the staff attentive (perhaps over-friendly), and there is an attractive terrace for warm evenings. As for the food, the use of fresh, AOC ingredients is commendable and care has been taken over the presentation, as you’d expect in this price range. It’s time to cut down on the use of frothy emulsions but aside from that the dishes were flavoursome and exhibited panache. Only go for the dessert smorgasbord if you have stamina. Who comes here? Not, as you might, expect, M6 viewers with autograph books in hand, rather the clientele reflected a spill-over from Lignac’s suave other kitchen at La Suite.