Poached egg, white-bean salad and smoked haddock, part of 39€, 3-course menu.

When three-star Michelin chef Antoine Westermann boldly opened this tiny bistro far from his native Strasbourg on the Ile St-Louis what followed was immediate success. Unlike the traditional, old-style bistro that many expected, a fresh modern space beckoned from the cobblestone streets. The formula is simple: a small, minimally designed dining room, seating 40 in a relaxed, communal space; an updated Alsatian cuisine, with great vegetables; and friendly, dynamic service thanks to the omnipresent Adrien. While Anthony Clémot has recently left the kitchen to run the recently re-opened one-star Drouant, his replacement, Frédéric Crochet, also from the Westermann stable, brings his own vision to the master’s remote-controlled restaurant. A recent tasting from the 39€ menu included a perfectly poached egg on top of a white-bean salad with delicious slivers of smoked haddock, juicy free-range chicken and herb risotto, and a spicy stewed pear in red-wine sauce. The wine list is well chosen and priced, with offerings either by the glass or bottle. One of Paris’ best-value and most interesting neo-bistros.