'Set menu with amuse-bouches, miso soup and sakana, 28€.'
This newish restaurant seems to reflect the iconoclastic nature of its young, successful, and clued-in team owners, two alumni from the stable of media-savvy chef Gilles Choukroun: the young wunderchef Inaki Aizpitarte, and his partner-in-crime, Laurent Chareau (both of whom garnered much press from their stints at La Famille), as well as art critic, Gilles Stassart, and man-about-town, Benjamin Pelletier. In the hinterlands of Vitry-sur-Seine in the spanking new MAC/VAL contemporary art museum is their rather spartan dining room, where the emphasis is on serious eating. The menu is comprised of a ‘garde manger’ of 47 tapas-style dishes, which may be mixed and matched as desired, with combinations such as beetroot with cru-cuit foie gras, fresh vegetables from the garden of Joel Thibault, as well as two daily dishes, one inspired by a French classic, the second by the current art exhibition. In the evening, a 40€, 10-dish tasting menu makes for a more inventive gastronomic experience, with the possibility of ‘zooming in’ on a dish for the full-size experience.