'Pina colada of fresh roasted foie gras, (as part of 3-course prix fixe), 38€'
In a secluded side street of the 17th arrondissement, young chef Jean-Marc Notelet’s latest venture has become a pilgrimage for in-the-know Parisian gourmets. Serving traditional French cuisine, accented by his mastery of world spices, Notelet is creating dishes that are markedly inventive and subtle. Famously quoted as saying ‘not knowing what to cook gets me out of bed in the morning’, Notelet first proved his talent at Reim’s legendary (then) three-star Boyer Les Crayeres, and then at his pre-‘bistronomique’ bistro Le Troyon. A recent tasting of his daily menu offered a number of delicious surprises such as mushrooms with an oyster cream and Corona beer sorbet; scallops on a bed of Jerusalem artichokes, truffles emulsion with shavings of black truffle; ‘tortilla’ of gambas with Indian spices; and an excellent cut of beef, cooked in cinnamon and baby leeks. The dining room is decorated in subtle browns, and the service is friendly and professional. Reserve now.