Opened last year by the Kinugawa family, Hanawa is an enormous emporium of Japanese cuisine, just off the elegant avenue Montaigne. The restaurant is divided into three different levels, each serving its own speciality: teppanyaké, sushi and traditional cuisine. We visited the traditional restaurant, tasting deliciously authentic (but expensive) dishes such as beef with ginger and algae, spankingly fresh tuna sashimi, and a wonderful sushi platter. As good as the food was, we couldn't help wondering if the new wave of authentic and good-value Japanese restaurants (Guilo Guilo, Youlin) might eventually dethrone outsized establishments like this, not that the ladies who lunch and suits would care. AM